I started with the Hydratech Hydroboost kit which came complete with everything needed for the basic installation. After reading many many threads about this install, I discovered a modification which runs the low pressure return line direct to the Power Steering Pump. This eliminates a 'T' fitting in the basic kit and prevents any fluid feedback to the HB unit. Parts for that mod were Tallon Hydraulics part# 8203 (5/16-24 O-ring male to -6AN male), 2-Russell 613161 90* -6AN hose ends, Russell 670850 -6AN Fuel Cell Bulkhead fitting, Tallon Hydraulics part# 1451 2pack of 3 Hole Hose Clamp Separators and Russell Stainless Steel braided low pressure hose.

AutoZone Repair Guide for your Brakes Hydraulic Brake System Hydro-boost. Mytestxpro fajl klyucha. The system should be bled whenever the booster is removed and installed. How to install a PSC-1475K power steering pump kit Cylinder assist. FULL HYDRAULIC DIAGRAMS. Full Hydraulic - Front. Full Hydraulic - 4.

First drain the PS pump reservoir, remove old PS hoses from pump and steering box Then remove old master cylinder brake pedal rod from the brake pedal Disconnect the front and rear brake lines and remove the old master cylinder I made a new gasket to fit between the new HB unit and the firewall, I used Felpro# 3157 rubber fiber gasket material from NAPA Auto Parts. Then I installed the HB unit. Before installing the Wilwood master cylinder, install the two high pressure lines and the low pressure return line.

Installation of these hoses is nearly impossible if you install the master cylinder first (ask me how I know). Remove the preinstalled brass 90* fitting for the low pressure return port from the HB unit, and replace with the THI 5/16'-24 O-ring male to -6AN male fitting on the HB unit. Be sure to torque ONLY to 10 ft. As the threads for this fitting can strip very easily. Use one wrench to hold this fitting while tightening the Russell part# 613161 90* hose end with another wrench. Day 2) I drilled a hole above the fluid line in the PS pump reservoir and installed the Russell #670850 -6AN Fuel Cell bulkhead fitting in the reservoir for the low pressure return line from the HB unit. I stuffed a clean shop rag into the reservoir, spread some grease on the end of the drill bit(metal particles stick to it), and vacuumed real well with the shop vac to make sure no metal particles got into the reservoir.

Then I cut to proper length, the two high pressure lines coming from the HB unit and installed the Aeroquip fittings and then installed them in their proper locations, and also installed the Russell part# 613161 90* hose end on the other end of the low pressure return line and installed that on the PS reservoir. Next, I need to fill the power steering pump with fluid, and bleed the system, checking for any possible leaks. I'll be securing the two hose clamp separators to the inner fender, I need some new hardware for that. I also need to bend some new lines for installation of a proportioning valve and then bleed the brakes. Then a test drive!!

Hydraulic Assist Brake System The rule of thumb is that you need at least 15 inches of engine vacuum to operate a power brake booster safely. With a heads-up driver and some caution you might run some boosters with even less engine vacuum.

It really depends on the car, the brakes, the master cylinder, the booster, and how adept you are at anticipating the traffic ahead of you. But there is always some risk: You might not get enough brake boost in some panic situations. Our experience has been mixed.

On the 620hp solid-roller 427ci small-block Chevy in our ’75 Laguna, we get almost 8 inches of vacuum, and our vacuum booster seems pretty happy with that. The hydraulic-roller 400ci small-block in our 1968 Nova, however, makes almost 100 hp less, but it’s maxed out at just 4 inches of vacuum at idle. The brake booster in the Nova works only about half the time—and then mostly at highway cruising speed. In clogged traffic or city driving, however, that vacuum booster is nothing but dead weight. Today’s radical street cams are great at making power, but let’s face it—you are still on the hook for getting your street machine slowed down. If you need help in the braking department due to a big bumpstick (such as our Nova’s), there are really only two solutions: convert to a manual brake booster (and lose all hope of easy footwork), or convert to some form of hydraulically assisted brake booster (and restore that light touch to your power brakes).

We knew which fix we preferred. Hydraulic assist is not a new idea—it’s been around on production vehicles for decades, and they are the solution of choice in applications where engine vacuum is not an option for assist.

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